NORTH BY NORTHEAST ‘20 – CHISAPANI TO POKHRA NEPAL’

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Agaiya – Chainpur – Butwal – Syangya - Pokhra Nepal

Distance this period: 465.47 km Total Distance: 4874.97 km

Agaiya (camp) – 117.2 km
Chainpur (camp) – 125.61 km
Butwal (camp) – 89.66 km
Syangya (camp) – 91.0 km

Pokhra – 42.0 km

Today’s ride was full of excitement. Started with fear while crossing Birdia National Park. Previous night people at the dhaba told me scary stories of wild animal attacking passerby in broad daylight that too on a wide road. So rode like anything… then at the end, already getting dark and entered Banke national park, again all alone big jungle both the sides of the road. Scary.. Dinner and found a tin shed to camp.

Total KM – 117.2 kmTotal expense – 400/- rs.Approx time – 6.35 hrs.

Hate these flat roads.. breakfast at Kusum. Lunch at Amilia. Met 2 cycling couple all the way Spain. Roads were empty due to strike. Chainpur…. asked a hotelwala if I can camp in his yard, but thats for bus parking he says. But he opens his terrace though, bike parked in garage.

Total KM – 125.61 kmTotal expense – 410/- rs.Approx time – 10.00 hrs.

All flat to Butwal. At Junction turned left to Pokhra road. En-route lots of hotel and food points but none offered proper meal and stay. They were open but offered drink and snacks only. Found a flat ground by roadside and camped.

Total KM – 89.66 km
Total expense – 280/- rs.
Approx time – 7.20 hrs.

Hills again, and I’m loving it. Speedometer stopped working today. Kali-Godawari river bridge… ups and downs continued.. Camped 5 kms short to Syangya town.

Total KM – 91.0 kmTotal expense – 290/- rs.
Approx time – 9.00 hrs.
Ups and downs continued.. Sunny day. Made it to Pokhra today. Lake Side area is where all the fun is someone told me.. At 1st roundabouttook left to Taal area, saw a bike shop, went in, found a nice guy, little bit of talking and he refers me to a cheap hotel nearby. Booked it for 3 rest days.

Total KM – 91.0 km Total expense – 290/- rs.
Approx time – 9.00 hrs.

They say they found first civilization proof somehwere here

A goodnight it is

Nice Spot by roadside.. a cold one though

Views are lovely.... and miles to cover

Nepali breakfast

First view of Pokhara Nepal

NORTH BY NORTHEAST ‘16 – SUNGRI TO DEHRADUN’

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Sungri – Hanol – Damta – Dehradun

Distance this period: 283.90 km Total Distance: 3439.09 km

Sungri – 0 km
Hanol – 85.10 km
Damta – 99 km
Dehradun – 99.80 km

I entered Uttarakhand today. Its all downhill from Sungri. Rohru… Got a puncture. And while fixing that my front wheel got a bad alignment, which I realised very late. Result… well the tire got some bad cuts which foreced me to take a decision to de-tour towards Dehradun. Thats the only place I could get a new tire. Luch rajma-rice @ Tiuni. A bridge then left turn to Hanol. Right turn goes Chakrata. Before bridge the road leads to Shimla. Rohru to Katkoti is dusty bad riding, bad traffic. Booked a hotel in Hanol, by roadside ovelooking a temple.

Total KM – 85.10 km

Total expense – 410/- rs.
Approx time – 6.00 hrs.

Next day started uphill to Mori. From here straight goes to har-ki-dun. I look right turn to Purola. Lunch. At Naugaon, took straight road to Dehradun. Nice road, Rained. Made it to Dumta. Booked Hotel.

Total KM – 99 km
Total expense – 480/- rs.
Approx time – 8.00 hrs.

Good road till the junction, where left goes via Mussoorie right goes vai Vukasnagar. After lunch of parantha there look left turn to uphill ride. Quite road till the Fall, Kempty Falls then lots of traffic. loud music and waste by roadside. Foggie top at Mussoorie then downhill. Track & trails shop is near Kalika Market but they had no tire for me. Gave address of Firefox store near Wadia Institute. They had one.. Called a friend, stored The X there for next 3 days and went to Haldwani to see my family.

Now leaving Himachal... Approaching UK

Hanol Temple.. Mahasu Devta Temple.. ASI has marked it as heritage site.. that Tons river or Tamas means the water in it is forbidden.. not to be used for irrigation etc..

And I got a weired look

Then there are beautiful villages..

Yup.. thats the road I just peddled up..

Thats Kempty Falls on the back.. Me climbing up in fury

North by Northeast ‘15 – Chitkul To Sungri’

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Chitkul - Chaura - Daran Ghati - Sungri

Distance this period: 232.30 km Total Distance: 3155.19 km

Chitkul – 0 km

Chaura – 100.90 km

Daran Ghati– 56.0 km

Sungri – 75.40 km

Plan was to stay in Chitkul for a longer duration and relax, but I felt kind of odd there so left next day. Breakfast at Sangla, Tea, piranha, Jalebi & kept Bananas for the ride. Urni climb took some time, lunch at Tapri, a nice dadi chawal. Jyori was the target, asked one guy about staying option there. Turned out to be a nice guy, offered me to stay at his place. Had a nice bath, his family was away so just both of us. His cousins cook food for us. He was on leave from his unit J&K rifles. Opened a bottle, rest I have no idea when I slept.

Total KM – 100.90 km

Total expense – 160/- rs.

Approx time – 8.04 hrs.

Army-mans cousin helped me pack my stuff, it was a nice stay. At Jeori took left turn and climbed all the way up to Gharat. Apples everywhere. From Gharat it was a flat ride. Mashnu was messy so was the left turn from there. Real bad kacha road, slush and jungle, on top of it there was no human soul around. I was scared like hell. It was a 12 kms of scary ride all the way up to the top. Tea shop at the top and a HPPWD rest house. Caretaker was there at the tea shop, drunk. I asked if I can camp there inside the rest house perimeter, he says no. So booked a room, bath followed by tea. He tells me it was built in 1913 by British, re-newd recently. Rice meat for the night, lots of stories, his Arunachal trip for a marriage, his encounter with a bear and langoor hunting. The rest house is lovely, in between jungles.

Total KM – 56.0 km

Total expense – 400/- rs.

Approx time – 6.00 hrs.

HPPWD stay was awesome, had the leftover meat in the morning with parantha. Started the journey downhill, real bad loose stones for 4 kms. Hit bottom at the river bridge, Taklech. market, had chowmin, Just after the bridge took left turn. right goes to Rampur. Uphill starts, some curves are quite steep. At top jungle starts, flat riding to Bahli. Lunch, waited for PWD rest house caretaker, but bad luck! no rooms. worthless 2 hours of wait. Withdrawn some cash from SBI ATM, and started towards Sungri around 6pm. Again scared of bear attack peddled hard. Asked The caretaker at Sungri PWD rest house if I can camp. A suspicious guy, but offered me room, ordered food. At night some other fellow came and slept in the same room. Nice view from the rest house. Britishers surely had a good taste.

Total KM – 75.40 km

Total expense – 455/- rs.

Approx time – 7.30 hrs.

North by Northeast ‘13 – Chandra Taal To Hurling’

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Chandra Taal (rest day) – Losar – Kaza – Hurling HPPWD

Distance this period: 237.68 km Total Distance: 2439.77 km

Chandra Taal – 0 km
Losar – 36.92 km
Kaza – 68.04 km
Hurling – 60.08 km

Took a rest dat at Chandra Taal. Campsite is way below the actual Taal. Ask a tent wallah if I can camp in front of his tent cum food stall, he said yes! ate maggie, 80 rs. for that one bowl of noodles, can you believe? hilarious. got stomach-ache, a sick day, loosemotions, headache. No good.
Total KM – 0 kms
Total expense – 0/-

early morning packed everything, saw another cyclist spreading his sleeping bag open in air at far. bumpy ride continued. Ate nothing the previous day so thought of going back to Batal and have a meal but the thought of the ride back said no so skipped it. 9 kms up to the Kunzum La Top, pretty bumpy and sunny day. at 12 noon made it the top. Rested a bit. Then starts worst downhill, hands shaking like anything, took a lot of energy on concentration & riding. Then some flat and came Losar. 1st restaurant up, ordered food, got talking to the owner, he says I can camp in his premises at the back. He tells me one cyclist met with an accident and taken back to Manali. Then came the other cyclist, from Boka ( a country sandwitched between Spain & France) he tells me.
Total KM – 36.92 kms
Total expense – 280/-
Approx time - 5.42 Hrs

Losar is the place where you need to register yourself with the local police.
Bloody punctured day today; 5 in total. Started with new European guy at 7, 1st puncture just after 5 kms of ride, the guy helped me to fix it. At Kuato, asked locals about Kibber route, got mixed response some said yes we can cross it some said no. The GREF guy confirms road is being built till Chichim; to reach Kibber, a suspension bridge is there, you cannot ride on it. So we went towards Kaza. Flat after flat tire so changed the rear tire just after the place called Hal. The guy continued his journey I fixed my bike. Got ATM near Kaza bazaar. took out 2k, had chowmin momo, then got puncture again. Camped by the road and fixed it. Took off the mudguard as well.
Total KM – 68.04 kms
Total expense – 210/-
Approx time - 6.00 Hrs

Got up at 5, cleaned the bike and started at 9. today was a no water route. Some pretty bad stretches. Following the Spiti river. Lunch at Tabo, other than that no food option in-between. Got talking with the owner Ramesh, nice guy, been there for 15 years, originally from Bilaspur, now organises tours trekking and all. Made it to Hurling. Tea and enquired about Sumdo stay options, reply came as strict NO, said better check with HPPWD right here. Nice guy the caretaker. He allowed me to camp inside. Talks and then dinner at some restaurant Tengin Fast food.
Total KM – 60.08 kms
Total expense – 180/-
Approx time - 6.30 Hrs

Missed the route towards Gue, the mummy place. its 8 kms off the main road. Had tea samosa jalebi at Sumdo. Sumdo is the place where foreigers need to show ILP, can get it from Kaza. I just registered mysellf. Sumdo is just a army transit place no stay option. Here you cross the Spiti river, now it will flow to your left side. Road widening work in progress. Easy climb of 13 kms before Nako. Lunch. Lovely downhill till the bridge where Spiti river meets ugly mighty Sutlej river. Namgia, you can take a turn towards ShipkiLa, doors ro ChinaLand. thought of going up but heavy headwind + late. Made it to Pooh by 7 pm. 3 kms up from main road, found a hotel (Om Hotel).
Total KM – 92.80 kms
Total expense – 610/-
Approx time - 9.11 Hrs

The Kunzum La top

The X' resting 

The downhill starts, jolting bolting and falling

This is the road

Then I could smell the food

Got company for a day, lovely

Amazingly carved

Some town is coming

Kibber, I guess and Kibber monastry a little up. The other side of the river Spiti

Everyday morning routine

Somewhere into the wilderness

Not so far to the touchdown

Driving License procedure – Delhi

Driving License procedure – Delhi

Okay, so now that I have got my driving license (2 wheeler vehicle only), let me jot down the procedure here.

1. First go to https://dlpay.dimts.in/app/index.aspx


2. Apply for Learner’s License, fill up the form online.


3. Pick a time slot to book appointment, pay fee, which is rs 30/-+service charge for two wheeler. I booked early morning slot of 07:00 – 07:30 AM. I would advise you to book early one to avoid long queue there.


4. Print out your filled form, paste a photograph and sign below it, fee receipt along with self-attested below documents.


5. You need 2 documents –
   
   
   
   • Residence Proof of Delhi
   
   
   • Age Proof
   
   
   • Passport size photograph
   
   
   
   


6. For residence – Aadhar card or voter id card or passport etc. I submitted Aadhar Card.


7. For age – Pan card or School certificate or birth certificate etc. I submitted School Certificate.


8. On appointment day carry your original documents, with a copy of each self-attested.


9. I went to Sheikh Sarai office for 2 wheeler license; there you need to go to counter no 9. Give your filled form, he will ask for original documents. Confirm your details on the system, like name, address etc.


10. He will give you a fee receipt and pass your form to counter no. 10. There you have to give finger prints; signature and they will click a photo of you. This photo will be there in your DL, so make sure you smile. J


11. Once this is done they will attest your form, stamp and will return to you.


12. Now you have to go 2^nd floor room no 210 for online test.


13. Wait for your turn, hand over your form. Keep the only fee receipt with you. Give test. Result will be in front of you. If fail you have to go back again after a week. If pass, you have to wait till 2 o’clock.


14. At 2 o’clock they will distribute the learner’s license from room no 212.


15. Now you got your learning license, learn to ride. You got ONE month time to apply for permanent license.


16. After 30 days you again need to go online https://dlpay.dimts.in/app/index.aspx


17. Apply for permanent license, book appointment pay fee of rs. 250/- + for 2 wheeler vehicle. Again print the filled form and fee receipt, affix a photograph of yours, self-attest.


18. On appointment day, carry your bike with a sign L at front & back (imp.) with you, filled form with photo, fee receipt. Go to counter no 9 (Sheikh Sarai), give your finger prints and collect fee receipt.


19. Carry your form, pick your bike and go to the main road just outside office building.


20. There will be a long queue with vehicles with sign L, give your form to the inspector. Wait.


21. As soon as you hear your name; fasten your helmet, start your bike, go to the start line. Listen to the inspector carefully and proceed. Complete the round and reach to the inspector, he will inform you the result. If pass your DL will reach to your address within a week. If fail, come back again after 8 days.


22. He failed me on my first driving test.
    
    
    
    1. Reasons-
       
       
       
       1. Helmet not fasten correctly
       
       
       2. Crossed the zebra line at the red light.
       
       
       3. Did not give left indicator while parking the bike.
       
       
       
       
    
    
    
    


23. So I went again after 8 days, (10 days actually). Had to pay 50/- rs fee at counter no 1 and finger print at counter no 2. Gave test again and passed.


24. I actually forgot counter no 2 thing; didn’t give finger prints. I just paid fees and gave test, went home and then office. At evening I got a call from rto office to come again and complete finger prints part. So next morning went again there and completed.


25. So on 19^th Oct 2016 all formalities completed; on 22^nd Oct India Post delivered my permanent driving license at my door.

Happy driving everyone!

North by Northeast ‘11 - Pang To Grampo’

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Pang - Sarchu - Darcha - Grampo campsite

Distance this period: 237.68 km Total Distance: 2439.77 km

Pang – 0 km
Sarchu – 79.16 km
Darcha – 79.22 km
Grampo – 79.30 km

From Pang, the charm of Manali - Leh highwayturns pale. Bad road starts, the rain made it worse. Now that Tanglang La was closed, traffic coming from Leh was stopped too. So it was a good ride. Made it to LachungLa top, then down to Whisky Nallah, had maggie then uphill to NakeeLa. Then downhill, 21 loops of Ghata Loops started. Loved it. Touched the riverbed, then a bridge, broken. BRO was working, even though peoples were walking on that bridge, the main guy didn’t allow me to pass through. Wasted an hour, he made me first to cross, everyone was clapping, nice.
Then flatish ride to Sarchu. crossed a bridge and officially entered into Himachal Pradesh. One guy from tid shed shouted stay dinner daru here, so here I was sipping a bottle of bear in my tent. Adios J&K. Camped
Total KM - 79.16 kms
Total expense - 310/-

One day of rest makes a lots of different.. good ones.

Early morning heard peoples talking about God; well I am in HP now.
Flattish ride to Kilingsarai BRO dett. uphill starts, Bharatpur. Lunch time. Met 2 cyclists going in same direction, then met Worldbiking couple (going opposite, to Leh), some chat, then 2 more Spanish cyclists going towards Leh. Baralacha La Top, again got a chance to salute entire army convoy. Zingzingbar. Tea Chana at Patseo. Made it to Darcha. Room for 100/- rs.
Total KM - 79.22 kms
Total expense - 470/-

Good road continued all the way to Keylong. Had piranha. Then a bad patch of road, Tandi Bridge, THE famous Tandi bridge heard a lot this bridge before now here I was. Two rivers Chandra and Bhaga meets here. Then dusty uphill to Gondala. On this dust met Ahmedabad family of Pang stay. Tanglang La was still closed so they turned back. Luch at Sissu. Koksar, a bridge, the starts the horrible dirly climb of Rohtang La. Dragged myself to a spot where I could camp. Found one, as soon as I opened the tent, a guy comes and enquires what am I upto. Nice guy from Nepal. Invited me to camp next to his camp other side of wallah. He made a nice dinner for me, how lovely.
Total KM - 79.30 km
Total expense - 90/-

first pass of today.. LachungLa

Whisky Nallah at the bottom. Lunch point.

 

Inside view of the temporary tents..

Sleep is 45 kms away..

 2nd pass of the day.. NakeeLa

 HP roadways runs a daily bus Delhi to Leh..in 2 days. First stop Keylong. Only during the season.

Well, its time to park The X and salute the braves...

Ghata Loops starts, Thank God, I'm going down..

Sarchu approaching

They look pretty, but quite dangerous to cross. Chilly, fast and too many holes in there...

 

Baralacha La Pass... Way too windy to breath..

Road is freshly tared and smooth like a skin..

Darcha approaching

Keylong..

from campsite..