North by Northeast ‘10 - Nyoma To Pang’

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Nyoma Camp - Tsokar (Thugje) - Pang

Distance this period: 139.89 km Total Distance: 2202.09 km

Nyoma – 0 km
Tsokar – 79.23 km
Pang – 60.66 km
Pang (rest day) – 0 km

Nyoma has good home stays and hotels, food options available easily. But I was in no mood to spend money on leisure. So had some noodels and headed to a isolated place, camped and slept. It rained at night and continued in the morning. Gave a little window to pack my stuff and keep moving. The night was beautiful but felt lonely.

22 km to Nyoma is Mahe, right road goes to HorLa, KaksangLa to Chusul, I kept my left towards to Mahe bridge, Police check post. Permit and entry. Nice guy, gave me salty tea, I was hungry, wet, shaky completely drenched. Straight road goes towards Leh, I crossed the bridge to my left. 12 km is Sumdho, Before the town is a junction, left goes to Tso Moriri. I took straight to my right. A shop is there at Sumdho but no one was there.

Further 7 kms is Puga, just few houses. Some tarmac road and then starts the bloody rocky climb to Pologongka La. This 11 km to the top is damn nasty, pushed all the way up. 2 days of no food made it worse. It was already 5 pm when I reached the top. Found two guy drinking, continued, hurders camp, kids chased me on downhill. Then weather turned ugly, rained, crossed two dangerous water crossing, water was flowing like hell up my waist. wet pannier, wet cloths, dark, way to windy to handle the bike. Flaged down upcoming vehicle but he responded with a bad news, next town further 10 kms. He suggested to cross the watercrossing from middle of the road, smart guy.

My bike The X was in full mood today, rode it like running for my life and it obeyed me like a partner. I almost kissed it. At 8 pm a shop keeper offered a room for 300/- and warm food. Bargained for 200/- all. One hell of a ride today.
Its 16 kms to Manali-Leh highway! yay..
Kms covered - 79.23 km
Total expense - 550/-

Next day started as late as 11 am. Theres one short cut to the Manali - Leh highway but took a long one. Debring, 40 kms to Pang, Moore Plains, met one Irish cyclist solo and a guy from Banglore, both riding towards Leh. Weather turned ugly, strong headwind, some rain. Then Pang. A lady offered a bed for 100/- rs.
Kms covered - 60.66 km
Total expense - 615/-

Took a rest day at Pang, nothing much to do here. Borrowed some carosine from the owner lady and washed The X nicely.
Then met a family from Ahmedabad, they stayed at Manali for a day and rode straight here at Pang, complaining of headache. I advised to check with doctor and they did. Frightened whole family.

It rained and got a news of Tanglang La being closed.

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Sumdho. Left goes to Karzok Tso Moriri.. I took right[/caption]

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Road is full of such stones and hard to ride uphill. Puched all the way up[/caption]

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="640"] At Pologongka La Top.. Those who say Cycling touring is easy; look at the face, its no sunshine all the time. I had no proper food for 3 days now... Previous day was just a plate of noodels, today not even water let alone food. Carrying just one bottle on such hills is a suicide mission. And I was in one.[/caption]

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="640"] It has started raining other side, I must hurry.[/caption]

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="640"] This man at Thugje, Tso Kar keeps oscilating between Leh and here. Entire family moves with him here for 4-5 months to help tourists like me to survive.[/caption]

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Good to see tared road after so many days of off-riding. Its gonna be smooth ride for rest of the day. Manali - Leh highway near Debring..[/caption]

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Moore Plains...[/caption]

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Weather turning bad.. Moore Plains.[/caption]

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Vastness has no limit[/caption]

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="640"] The X resting[/caption]

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="4607"] Pang.[/caption]

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Now its time to rest and eat like hell. I really need to fill my stomach put some serious calories and other stuff.[/caption]

North by Northeast ‘7 - Leh To Khardung La’

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Leh – North Pullu – Hunder – Khardung Village

Distance this period: 186.01 km Total Distance: 1693.41 km

Leh – 0 km
North Pullu – 56.91 km
Hunder – 80.44 km
Khardung Village – 48.66 km

Leh stay was mesmerizing, would love to be there again for a long stay there. Such a charming place.
Kms covered - 0.00
Total expense - 960/-

It was time to conquer the Top, KhardungLa. Started 0530 am, its easy climb to start. Gentle climb and good tarred road upto South Pullu. Check post. Some tea, food stalls there. Then starts bad road, water crossings, and road work never finishes here.

I was in good company of cyclists all the way up, everyone loves challenges I guess.

I pushed last couple of kms, was damn tired and exhausted. Had Maggie at the top. And The Top. What a feeling!

Then I pushed some downhill too, it was too scary to ride on such boulders, potholes and cold. Some terrible water crossings other side. Lession learnt - no riding after 3 o'clock in hills. North Pullu, Stay at some hotel.
Kms covered - 56.91
Total expense - 390/-

Look at the climb, the sunny day, the surroundings, what else you need to finish your challenge!

South Pullu at the first curve and dirt road starts. Your eye balls are dancing, don't they?

The TOP!!... So called highest motorable road, and I did it without a motor; on a cycle. Proud moment. but lonely. Felt kind of sad, remembered the movie 'Into The Wild'

Add caption

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="640"] This is what the other side look like from the top. So clear[/caption]

It was all downhill ride today, road is tarred, smooth like a skin, loved the spinning. A Junction, straight road goes towards Agham, I was loving spinning by now so took the left turn, Khalsar, then flattish road to a junction; right ride goes to Panamik, I took the left one to Diskit and then to Hunder. Found a nice hotel.
Kms covered - 80.44
Total expense - 880/-

                     called highest motorable road, and I did it without a motor; on a cycle. Proud moment. but lonely. Felt kind of sad, remembered the movie 'Into The Wild'[/caption]The TOP!!... So called highest motorable road, and I did it without a motor; on a cyAghamanother route for Pangong Lake via Shyok village or via WariLa. I took the turn.[/caption]

Couldn’t go further ahead of Hunder. Return back journey started. At Khalsar had lunch. One army van was stationed there, walked up to the young officer sitting at the front seat and saluted him. Bad news – Agham route is blocked. I asked him how he joined forces and all. On the status of road he said local can’t be trusted better check with the chowki stationed before the junction. But a bad day today. What this means - I will have to climb back to the top. Damn!

Then I did, but found myself uneasy on the climb back and camped 10 km short of Khardung Village. Hund I wasn't aware about this fact.[

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Funny, I was so happy to cross this blockage. I packed everything again just to find out another big blockage about 100 meters ahead. So embarrassing! on my stupidity. I wasted some 2 hrs to figure the way out on first blockage.

Khardung Village; from the campsite. I was out of food but just couldn't ride.[/caption]