North by Northeast ‘8 - Khardung Village To Tangtse via ChangLa’

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Khardung Village – Ganglas (upper Leh) – Zingral - Tangtse

Distance this period: 187.94 km Total Distance: 1881.35 km

Khardung - 0 km
Ganglas – 52.96 km
Zingral – 81.70 km
Tangtse – 53.28 km

Early morning; woke up without water or food, rode about 10 km to Khardung village for breakfast.

Then the nasty climb of that side up to the Top was killing. It was already 1 o'clock when I crossed North Pullu, continued, I could see sunny weather turning cloudy and 5 km short of the Top it started raining. I started pushing The X on slippery, watery, cold road.

And then a cabbie offered me a lift, couldn’t say no, looking at the furious weather. My plan was to camp just below the Top (~1 km), while coming down I saw one abandoned road workers camp but lift was there, they dropped me at South Pullu. Had some noodles there and rode towards Leh till I found a camp spot just before Leh town.
Kms covered - 52.96
Total expense - 215/-

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="640"] The crystal clear milky chilled water.[/caption]



[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Army convoy, a dream come true to salute the full convoy. Some smiled, some gave weired look.[/caption]



[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Yes! thats the plan. all the way up to KhardungLa Top.[/caption]

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Leh again.[/caption]

Leh again, but continued riding left on Manali road, met a cyclist from Israel. Little chat. Then late breakfast at Karu, packed emergency food. Straight road goes to TanglangLa, I took left turn. Made it to Sakti by noon. Junction; left goes to WariLa, some eating joints are there, had some food there and headed right to ChangLa. What a climb it is, killing gradient. Asked for shelter at Zingral army camp, denied. Then there was this guy called Shindhe, he pointed me to GREF campsite, other side of the road. Nice stay; got heater, some rum, chicken rice and lots of gyan. Zingral Camp
Kms covered - 81.70
Total expense - 250/-

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="640"] At Sakti[/caption]



[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="640"] The green Sakti.[/caption]



[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="640"] The lonely climb to ChangLa[/caption]



[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Pushing is normal here.[/caption]

Had tea early morning there and left. It took 4 hrs to cover last 12 km of ChangLa top, road was pretty bad. At the top, tea was 30 rupees a cup, noodles 60 a plate, great.
But it’s THE TOP.

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="640"] And WOW! Amazingly wow!! another TOP!!![/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignleft" width="640"] Maggie noodles was banned on lowlands but here, I paid 80 rs for this.[/caption]

Downhill starts from the top, road are nice and tarred. Rained a bit, repeated same mistake of not breaking at the water crossing and fell off the bike. A puncture, left side of the break system broke, don’t know how will I survive with only rear breaking. It’s all down to Durbuk. Junction; left goes to Agham, I took right to Tangtse. A bad day.
Kms covered - 53.28
Total expense - 900/-

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="640"] The road, other side of the pass.[/caption]



[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="640"] The risky road, not so great for skinny tire like mine.[/caption]

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="640"] But vistas are great.[/caption]



[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="640"] This is the curve I came screaming down and glitched the first bad patch but struck on second. got a bad hit, a distorted handlbar, broke front breaking system.[/caption]

North by Northeast ‘7 - Leh To Khardung La’

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Leh – North Pullu – Hunder – Khardung Village

Distance this period: 186.01 km Total Distance: 1693.41 km

Leh – 0 km
North Pullu – 56.91 km
Hunder – 80.44 km
Khardung Village – 48.66 km

Leh stay was mesmerizing, would love to be there again for a long stay there. Such a charming place.
Kms covered - 0.00
Total expense - 960/-

It was time to conquer the Top, KhardungLa. Started 0530 am, its easy climb to start. Gentle climb and good tarred road upto South Pullu. Check post. Some tea, food stalls there. Then starts bad road, water crossings, and road work never finishes here.

I was in good company of cyclists all the way up, everyone loves challenges I guess.

I pushed last couple of kms, was damn tired and exhausted. Had Maggie at the top. And The Top. What a feeling!

Then I pushed some downhill too, it was too scary to ride on such boulders, potholes and cold. Some terrible water crossings other side. Lession learnt - no riding after 3 o'clock in hills. North Pullu, Stay at some hotel.
Kms covered - 56.91
Total expense - 390/-

Look at the climb, the sunny day, the surroundings, what else you need to finish your challenge!

South Pullu at the first curve and dirt road starts. Your eye balls are dancing, don't they?

The TOP!!... So called highest motorable road, and I did it without a motor; on a cycle. Proud moment. but lonely. Felt kind of sad, remembered the movie 'Into The Wild'

Add caption

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="640"] This is what the other side look like from the top. So clear[/caption]

It was all downhill ride today, road is tarred, smooth like a skin, loved the spinning. A Junction, straight road goes towards Agham, I was loving spinning by now so took the left turn, Khalsar, then flattish road to a junction; right ride goes to Panamik, I took the left one to Diskit and then to Hunder. Found a nice hotel.
Kms covered - 80.44
Total expense - 880/-

                     called highest motorable road, and I did it without a motor; on a cycle. Proud moment. but lonely. Felt kind of sad, remembered the movie 'Into The Wild'[/caption]The TOP!!... So called highest motorable road, and I did it without a motor; on a cyAghamanother route for Pangong Lake via Shyok village or via WariLa. I took the turn.[/caption]

Couldn’t go further ahead of Hunder. Return back journey started. At Khalsar had lunch. One army van was stationed there, walked up to the young officer sitting at the front seat and saluted him. Bad news – Agham route is blocked. I asked him how he joined forces and all. On the status of road he said local can’t be trusted better check with the chowki stationed before the junction. But a bad day today. What this means - I will have to climb back to the top. Damn!

Then I did, but found myself uneasy on the climb back and camped 10 km short of Khardung Village. Hund I wasn't aware about this fact.[

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Funny, I was so happy to cross this blockage. I packed everything again just to find out another big blockage about 100 meters ahead. So embarrassing! on my stupidity. I wasted some 2 hrs to figure the way out on first blockage.

Khardung Village; from the campsite. I was out of food but just couldn't ride.[/caption]